Issue 18
Sole Provider
By Chris FlynnPhotos by Sudeep Lingamneni
Two-and-a-quarter billion feet walk the highways and byways of the planet’s second most populous country. The relatively tiny region of Delhi is home to more than 15 million people, living in a space that is smaller than the Faroe Islands (population 49,000). The most densely packed and frequently visited road in the city of New Delhi is Janpath, upon which millions of feet stroll through the market connecting Connaught Place to Lodhi Garden.
Travelers brave the long, hot summers and monsoons every year to make the pilgrimage to Janpath, where they are faced with a bewildering barrage of colorful goods in New Delhi’s prime street marketplace. Multiculturalism is evident in the intricate marble and sandalwood carvings from the north, perfect silk clothing from Kashmir, bold tapestries from Rajasthan and a myriad of other objects of curiosity from around the nation.
Gotiram sits reading his English-language copy of India Today in the middle of the street in Janpath, scrutinizing the budget figures. At 40, his demeanor is a marked departure from what one might expect from someone who has made a 20-year career out of shining and repairing shoes. He is playful as he banters with the local stallholders, who have grown up with him servicing their foot-wear. During their frequent cigarette and chai breaks they discuss politics, religion and business, standing close together like family members.
A simple shine costs 15 to 20 rupees (about 50 cents), depending on how dirty your footwear is and how well you handle yourself in a haggle. If more complex repairs are required, Gotiram can take care of that too. From business shoes to jootis (handcrafted decorative Indian shoes), his hands are a whirl of activity as he performs each task.
Delhi is more than a bustling, overpopulated metropolis. Herein lies the cradle of civilization. Delhi is one of the oldest continually inhabited cities of the world, and has been the capital of several empires. Archaeological evidence suggests humans lived in the area as far back as 4,000 years ago, and the remains of seven different cities have been found within its limits. Delhi has been the center of power struggles between dynasties for centuries, only regaining its status as the modern capital in 1947 when India reclaimed its independence from the British. Today Delhi is the stronghold of Indian politics, and heart of its economy.
People like Gotiram form the backbone of the cottage industry in central Delhi’s shopping district. Although it is still referred to as “C.P.” by the locals, the moniker is a throwback to colonial days, originating from the Duke of Connaught’s visit to the area in 1920. The more modern appellation for the precinct is Rajiv Chowk, named after former PM Rajiv Gandhi. But, as in most cities, the re-branding of a place steeped in tradition is never straightforward.
In early September the heat is all pervading. The midsummer monsoons have not come about and the region is in a period of drought, which is often followed by flood, and death. Craftsmen like Gotiram find regular work, despite the cloying climate. The proliferation of highly skilled workers has led to a complete rejuvenation in the New Delhi economy. Many overseas manufacturers are relocating their businesses to the region to take advantage of a cheap and experienced labor force. Delhi’s per capita income is two and half times that of the national average in India, and unemployment is at an all-time low. Gotiram will have 20 customers a day on average, 30 if it is busy, and bring in five to eight dollars for his labors. He sits through the heat from eight in the morning until six in the evening before returning home on packed public transport to spend time with his six children, who are all still in school.
Gotiram knows it is time to go home. He carefully packs his tools away for the day, smiling as always. He claps the photographer on the shoulder and tells him to have lots of girlfriends and winks as he indicates in no uncertain terms that he needs to start making a family. Gotiram walks away to catch his bus, waving and cackling, and disappears into the multitudinous crowd that is New Delhi.